I have been wanting to make a jacket for the last couple of years.
On a visit to New Zealand two years ago I purchased a few meters of a brown wool suiting from global fabrics in Auckland. (It is the NZ version of our The Fabric Store and has since been renamed.)
I have been working on this jacket for a few months. It was finally finished a couple of weeks ago when Susie pointed me to the perfect closure.
Initially I made a muslin – size 12. The shoulders sat low, the front overlapped by a few inches and the princess seams at the front needed to be taken in. Discouraged with the amount of alterations necessary, it went untouched and straight to the bottom of the sewing pile.
In one of Craftsy’s many sales I found to the fitting back neck and shoulders course. So not wanting to give up I got it out again. But being the lazy girl that I am and not watching the class I had just bought – I retraced the pattern a size down and cut the fabric.
The pattern is designed really well and went together simply. The only main issue I had is that the lining pieces on the back and the arms were too short. I only noticed this pretty much as I was nearing completion.
The lining is obviously too tight and drags the hems up in wrinkles. Without tearing my hair out and remaking the whole jacket – I got out the iron. I re pressed the sleeve and the back jacket hem, turning more of the exterior fabric under. This means the seam lines are about 1/4″ to 1/2″ inside the garment. Not a real big deal but I obviously did loose length and the back and sleeves.
The sleeves also have a nice detail of being curved around the wrist. Changing the hem here lost this detail unfortunately.
It is a very smart fully lined jacket without bring overly complicated. It has some cute details like welt pockets, the curved hem at the wrists, shawl collar and the tapered waistline, which sits higher at the back.
I made this to wear with jeans but the style of this jacket would be very flattering to wear over a dress.
I would make this again and would definitely try the longer version. The only change I would do is add length the the sleeve and back lining pieces. Having too much fabric there can be fixed, but not enough is just a pain.
The shirt that I am wearing underneath is the Sammy Cami – free from Iconic Patterns.
Pattern – Belatrix blazer
Designer – Papercut Patterns
Fabric – 3m pure wool suiting global fabrics Auckland
Lining – 2m print poly satin from spotlight