This is my Kielo wrap dress by Named Clothing Patterns.
Named clothing’s last pattern collection All things nice was so overwhelming. So many good looking patterns. Most companies release one of two patterns every season, Named came out with 23 patterns with lots of coordinating items.
It takes a while for a pattern to become popular and gain momentum. I chose the make the Kielo wrap dress as my first go at one of their patterns. So far I have not seen any versions of this dress in blog land.
My intention was to make this from a subtly shiny green fabric to go with a statement necklace I had recently purchased. I bought all that was left on the bolt and it was not enough. So I made a Style Arc Rosie Peplum shirt with the fabric instead.
The Kielo pattern appealed to me as an easy to make, easy to wear item with no closures (zips or buttons). I could see its potential in a sheer, over a slip or in a large print woven. I had some serious doubts about this pattern, and was honestly slightly disappointed when I saw there was only two main pattern pieces. I didn’t make a muslin – it was either going to work or not. I was pleasantly surprised with the result.
Basically the wrap dress consists of a single front and two back pieces. The back it gently fitted using two moon shaped darts and the back seam.
The dress has these winglets that have straps attached to the ends. To wear the dress you wrap the winglets across and around the front of the body, then tie in front.
It fits nicely across the front with bust darts coming from the arm holes. It is designed very well. I expected the arm hole to be stretched when the dress is wrapped but it doesn’t seem to be an issue.
You need at least 2m of fabric 150cm wide to accommodate the wings. Otherwise you need 2 times the length of your shoulder to floor measurement.
I used a knit for this version as it was all that I really had in my stash at the time. It was just meant to be – it turned out brilliant.
It is a medium weight knit that has a very nice drape. The fabric is a jersey that is near navy in colour that I got at Spolight. The right side of the fabric had a slight sheen, which I didn’t like. Having the wrong side out let me take advantage of the natural curl of the fabric.
There is no need to be scared of sewing with knits. This is not a difficult pattern and I constructed it all on my sewing machine (no overlocker). I used the lightening bolt stitch for the seams. If you don’t have that feature on your machine, use a zig zag stich with a small width and a longer stitch. There will be hardly any zig in your stich but that is all you need to create a little stretch.
Tilly recently did a great post about sewing with Knits on a regular machine.
I cut a straight size 12 based on their measurements. This pattern is available as a PDF download. It was only 12 pages but the pattern pieces overlapped and were cut in half. So you have to trace this pattern, then flip the PDF around and match up the join lines to finish the pattern piece. The pattern includes seam allowances.
Four pages of the instructions contain generic sewing advice and tips. The actual steps for making the dress was only one page and included diagrams. even though it is brief, I did feel that this was adequate because it is just a simple garment.
Because I used a knit I didn’t finish the seams as the pattern suggests. If you are going to, then I would recommend pressing the seams open then finishing them. You need to have the seams open at the arm holes and the centre back near the slit to accommodate the hems.
I used stretch fusible stay tape to stabilise the neck and arms before turning over and stitching down. This created a really nice stable finish without too much fussing.
The only other deviation I made was to refer to my Colette Laurel instructions to use their technique for the back darts.
I wore this dress to the Brisbane sewers meetup on the weekend. It was a hit! A lot of girls said that they might make one too. I would love to know if you did!
Pattern – Kielo Wrap Dress (downloadable PDF)
Designer – Named clothing
Supplies – 2m of stretch knit 150cm wide from Spotlight